Iconic Irani Cafés: The Mumbai’s Parsi Heritage

Mumbai, the city that never sleeps, is a melting pot of cultures, traditions, and flavors. Among its many culinary treasures, the Irani Cafés stand out as a nostalgic reminder of Mumbai’s Parsi heritage. These charming establishments, with their checkered tablecloths, high ceilings, and vintage wooden furniture, have been serving mouthwatering Parsi and Irani delicacies for over a century. Whether you’re craving a piping hot cup of Irani chai, a plate of bun maska, or a hearty berry pulao, these cafés offer a slice of history with every bite.

In this blog, we explore the history, significance, and must-visit Irani cafés in Mumbai that continue to preserve this rich culinary and cultural legacy.

A Brief History of Irani Cafés in Mumbai

The story of Irani Cafés in Mumbai dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when immigrants from Persia (modern-day Iran) arrived in India, seeking refuge and better economic opportunities. Unlike the earlier wave of Parsis, who had settled in India centuries ago, the Irani Zoroastrians established affordable, welcoming eateries that quickly became the heart of Mumbai’s social and cultural scene.

These cafés became popular hangout spots for people from all walks of life – from students and workers to businessmen and artists. Over the years, their unique ambiance and delicious food have made them an inseparable part of Mumbai’s identity.

What Makes Irani Cafés Special?

Irani Cafés are more than just eateries; they are historical landmarks that tell the story of Mumbai’s evolution. Here’s what sets them apart:

• Timeless Ambiance: Their vintage décor, old-world charm, and simple wooden furniture transport you to another era.
• Affordable and Hearty Meals: These cafés serve delicious food at pocket-friendly prices, making them accessible to all.
• Cultural Crossroads: The cafés have long been places where people gather to discuss politics, literature, and life, fostering a unique community spirit.
• Unique Menu: A mix of Persian, Parsi, and Indian flavors, featuring signature dishes like bun maska, keema pav, dhansak, akuri, and mawa cake.

Must-Visit Irani Cafés in Mumbai

If you’re in Mumbai and want to experience authentic Parsi and Irani cuisine, these iconic Irani Cafés should be on your list:

1. Kyani & Co. (Since 1904)

• Location: Marine Lines
• Must-Try: Bun Maska, Irani Chai, Mutton Keema Pav, Mawa Cake
• Why Visit? One of the oldest Irani Cafés in Mumbai, Kyani & Co. is a landmark in itself. With its red-checkered tablecloths and a legacy spanning over a century, it continues to serve traditional Parsi dishes with love and nostalgia.

2. Britannia & Co. (Since 1923)

• Location: Ballard Estate
• Must-Try: Berry Pulao, Sali Boti, Dhansak, Caramel Custard
• Why Visit? This legendary café is famous for its Berry Pulao, a dish introduced by the current owner’s father. The charming interiors and the ever-smiling Mr. Boman Kohinoor (who sadly passed away in 2019) made it an unforgettable experience.

3. Yazdani Bakery & Café (Since 1950s)

• Location: Fort
• Must-Try: Bun Maska with Irani Chai, Apple Pie, Khari Biscuits
• Why Visit? If you love the smell of freshly baked bread, Yazdani Bakery is the place to be. This old-school bakery is known for its hand-churned butter and bread, and every bite takes you back in time.

4. Sassanian Boulangerie (Since 1913)

• Location: Marine Lines
• Must-Try: Mawa Cake, Cheese Khari, Akuri on Toast
• Why Visit? This lesser-known gem is one of the few surviving Irani bakeries in Mumbai, still preserving its authenticity and old-world charm.

5. Ideal Corner (Since 1985)

• Location: Fort
• Must-Try: Dhansak, Chicken Farcha, Parsi Custard
• Why Visit? A casual eatery that serves some of the best authentic Parsi food in town. The menu changes daily, so every visit is a new experience.

Signature Dishes You Must Try at an Irani Café

While each Irani Café has its own specialties, there are some classic dishes that you simply cannot miss:

1. Bun Maska & Irani Chai – A soft bun slathered with butter, best enjoyed with sweet, milky Irani tea.
2. Mawa Cake – A rich, cardamom-flavored cake made with khoya (mawa), perfect for dessert lovers.
3. Keema Pav – Spiced minced mutton served with freshly baked pav, a true delight.
4. Berry Pulao – A famous dish at Britannia & Co., made with fragrant rice, berries, and succulent meat.
5. Sali Boti – A slow-cooked Parsi mutton dish topped with crispy potato straws (sali).
6. Dhansak – A wholesome dish of lentils and mutton, served with caramelized rice.
7. Akuri – A Parsi-style scrambled egg dish, spiced to perfection.

The Decline and Revival of Irani Cafés

While Irani Cafés were once found on almost every corner of South Mumbai, their numbers have dwindled due to rising rents, changing eating habits, and modern café culture. However, a revival movement is slowly bringing them back into the limelight, with new-age restaurateurs preserving their heritage while adapting to contemporary tastes.

Conclusion

The charm of Mumbai’s Irani Cafés lies not just in their food but in the stories they tell. Every visit is a journey through time, offering a taste of a bygone era that still lingers in every sip of Irani chai and every bite of bun maska. Whether you’re a Mumbaikar or a visitor, exploring these historic cafés is an experience that connects you to the soul of the city.

So, the next time you’re in Mumbai, step into an Irani Café, order a Bun Maska with Chai, and soak in the nostalgia. These cafés are not just places to eat; they are living museums of Mumbai’s glorious past.